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FrankCH
Starting Member
Switzerland
7 Posts |
 Posted - 10/11/2004 : 13:30:48
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Hi
I just replaced the dying hard drive of my Panasonic Toughbook CF-T1. Its stock hard drive was of the 3.3V type. You can tell by the missing pin 44.
To make a regular 5V drive work, cut the pin 44 (key for 3.3V operation) and the pin 41 (logic supply). It is not necessary to connect pin 41 to pin 42 (spindle motor supply) if they're already connected internal to the drive, which is very likely. Check with a multi meter in Ohm mode. You should get less than 0.1 or 0.2 Ohms.
This worked for me with a Samsung Spinpoint M40, 40 GB drive. Windows XP installed fine and everything seems OK, but I had limited time testing.
PS: I tried to post to this topic, but it was locked.
http://www.leog.net/fujp_forum/topic.asp?ARCHIVE=true&TOPIC_ID=3635 |
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k.m
Starting Member
1 Posts |
Posted - 08/25/2005 : 17:12:31
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It works (for me)!
I changed today on a CF-R1 (20GB 3,3V HDD) to a Fujitsu MHV2080AT 80GB 5V HD
D and it works great! I bent PIN 41 down and connected it to PIN 42 (but pro
pably they are already connected internally) and removed PIN 44.
The new drive needs max. 0,55 Amps (incl. logic) and the old drive required
0,7 Amps only for the spindle-power, so I'm pretty shure that it won't hurt
the power supply.
Have fun,
k.m |
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Oliver
New Member
92 Posts |
Posted - 08/27/2005 : 19:17:17
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Hi KM,
Have you noticed a change in battery life?
Oliver |
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pierro78
Junior Member
114 Posts |
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Oliver
New Member
92 Posts |
Posted - 08/28/2005 : 17:21:24
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Hi pierro78,
You might also look at the 100 GB 5400 RPM hard drive MHV2100AH. It has low power consumption but not as low as the MHV2080AT or MHV2120AT.
Oliver
quote:
MHV2100AH
Product Description
The new Fujitsu MHV2xxxAH series offers up to 100GB capacity with 5400 RPM functionality giving users more performance compared to 4200 RPM hard disk drives, but with low power consumption
The MHV2xxxAH hard disk drives will provide industry-leading specifications, critical for today’s mobile computing applications:
· Best in Class Read / Write Power Consumption of 1.9W typ.
· Idle Power Consumption of 0.6W typ.
· L/UL (Load Unload) Cycle: 600,000 cycles
· Acoustic Noise of 2.6 bels (Typ.)
· Operating Shock of 2,940m/s2 (300G) 2ms
· Non-Operating Shock of 8,820m/s2 (900G) 1ms
· Track to Track Seek Times of 1.5 ms typ.
PS On second thought the 4200 RPM drives might be a better choice. The 4200 RPM drives use .3W less during idle as well as during Read/Write operations.
4200 RPM 120 GB MHV2120AT
Read/Write *1 Read 1.6 W/ Write 1.6W
Idle 0.5W typical
Standby 0.2W typical
Sleep 0.1W typical
5400 RPM 100 GB MHV2100AH
Power requirement Read/write 1.9 W (typical)
Power requirement Idle (ready) 0.80 W (typical)
Power requirement Sleep 0.1 W (typical)
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pierro78
Junior Member
114 Posts |
Posted - 08/28/2005 : 17:33:37
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Thanks Oliver. This MHV2120AT seems to be the most power efficient and I might get one :-)
As I told in my post of 08/27/2005 here :
http://www.leog.net/fujp_forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=7378
I am also considering getting a 2GB SD card to put the most used data (outlook files, IE or firefox caches, etc ...) on there so that I will have an almost silent and longer lasting machine ...
PS :
I am also wondering if it might be possible to boot Windows from a SD card (preferably a future 4GB one). Not sure of this because the cards appear as removable ? (In that way the system will be completely silent and will have the best autonomy. Performance with the newest SD cards seems to be good enough btw )
Location : USA & France |
Edited by - pierro78 on 08/28/2005 17:48:19 |
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pierro78
Junior Member
114 Posts |
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ContinentalOp
Starting Member
2 Posts |
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Oliver
New Member
92 Posts |
Posted - 09/13/2005 : 12:26:38
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Hi ContinentalOp,
Looks like a nice drive. The 5400 RPM Seagate drive is in line with the power consumption of a "standard" 4200 RPM drive. The 5400 RPM Fujitsu mentioned earlier consumes the same power during idle. The Fujitsu has higher Read/Write (1.9 vs 1.8) power requirements and lower standby power requirements.
The new 4200 drives are still a viable alternative because they have lowered the power requirements in comparison to the "standard" 4200 RPM drive. The power consumption during idle is of particular importance in my view.
As is usual in laptops, there are real tradeoffs between performance and power requirements. Given that I have a gig of RAM in my R4, I will probably go for a 4200 RPM drive. Of course, I might just put my 7200 RPM 7k60 drive in my R4 instead of selling it on ebay. :)
Take care,
Oliver
Seagate Momentus 120GB 5200.2 Power Management
Seek 2.0
Read/Write PATA 1.8/1.8
Idle PATA .80
Standby PATA .26
Fujitsu 4200 RPM 120 GB (MHV2120AT)
Read/Write *1 Read 1.6 W/ Write 1.6W
Idle 0.5W typical
Standby 0.2W typical
Sleep 0.1W typical
Travelstar 4200 RPM 4K120(HTS421212H9AT00)
Seek 1.7W
Read (avg.) 1.4W
Write (avg.) 1.4W
Performance idle (avg.) 1.25W
Active idle (avg.) 0.65W
Low power idle (avg.) 0.45W
Standby (avg.) 0.15W
Sleep 0.1W |
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ContinentalOp
Starting Member
2 Posts |
Posted - 09/13/2005 : 13:40:12
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quote:
Originally posted by Oliver
Hi ContinentalOp,
Looks like a nice drive. The 5400 RPM Seagate drive is in line with the power consumption of a "standard" 4200 RPM drive. The 5400 RPM Fujitsu mentioned earlier consumes the same power during idle. The Fujitsu has higher Read/Write (1.9 vs 1.8) power requirements and lower standby power requirements.
Oliver, good points. Do you think the Seagate would strain the R's battery to the point of uselessness? (I too have 1.25Gb RAM already installed, so I worry about my battery life.) |
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Oliver
New Member
92 Posts |
Posted - 09/18/2005 : 02:43:34
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Hi ContinentalOp,
I think most of the people who upgraded to a larger 4200 RPM drive took the same hit on battery life as you would with the new low power 5400 RPM Seagate. I believe Kemplar has a modified 5V hard drive in his R4. I would also like to know the impact on battery life from someone who has actually done the upgrade.
Oliver
PS Maybe KM will return with an update on the upgrade.
PPS Some have upgraded to larger 5400 RPM Drives! 
http://www.leog.net/fujp_forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=5649 |
Edited by - Oliver on 09/18/2005 02:54:07 |
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Oliver
New Member
92 Posts |
Posted - 09/18/2005 : 03:51:11
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Here is some info from another thread. I believe Derekslin was referring to the older ST9100823A drive.
ST9100823A
Power Mgmt (watts)
Seek 2.3
Read/Write 2.05/2.1
Idle/Standby .99/.2
ST9120821A 120gb, ST9100824A 100gb - newer drives
Seek 2.0
Read/Write PATA 1.8/1.8
Idle PATA .80
Standby PATA .26
quote:
Originally posted by derekslin
Yes, Seagate 100GB hard drive will work on W2. I installed it on my W2 few weeks ago. You do have to break 2 pins on the hd. This hd is really fast compare with the stock 40gb hd. I get about 45 min to an hour penalty on the battery. Good luck.
PS Useful links in upgrading
http://tinyurl.com/bkw6h
http://www.mfraenz.de/cf_y2/ |
Edited by - Oliver on 09/18/2005 04:41:36 |
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pierro78
Junior Member
114 Posts |
Posted - 10/06/2005 : 23:32:53
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Just ordered the Fujitsu MHV2120AT 120GB 4200RPM drive for my R1 (after loooooooooooong self-debates - autonomy & capacity vs price & speed ;-) ... )
$195 on zipzoomfly with free shipping : http://www.zipzoomfly.com/jsp/ProductDetail.jsp?ProductCode=100054
I hope the update will go on smoothly ... I'll keep you updated ;-) ...
Location : USA & France |
Edited by - pierro78 on 10/07/2005 04:08:40 |
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pierro78
Junior Member
114 Posts |
Posted - 10/11/2005 : 19:05:57
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The new hard drive is working fine :-)
About the autonomy I can't say because I haven't done any real measurement before. Sorry.
(but when doing heavy work on the computer it said like 2h19min of battery left @99% full ... kind of weird because I remembered it said like almost 5hours before)
PS : very quiet drive, especially when compared to the old original 20gb drive
Location : USA & France |
Edited by - pierro78 on 10/12/2005 02:27:22 |
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ML
Starting Member
USA
20 Posts |
Posted - 10/13/2005 : 08:40:37
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Hi Pierro78,
When you installed the new drive, did you have to bend/remove the two pins in order to get the drive to work? Also, I would like to hear how much of a battery drain, if any, when compare to your original drive. I was thinking of putting one of those drive in a R3. Thanks in advance. |
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pierro78
Junior Member
114 Posts |
Posted - 10/13/2005 : 13:40:41
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Hi ML,
Yes I did bend the two pins. I guess I had to because everybody does so. Interesting thing is that hard drive is still working with the 2 bent pins in a small usb hard drive enclosure.
About the battery drain I can't really say because I haven't done any real measurement before. Sorry.
(but first when doing heavy work on the computer the battery life estimation said like 2h19min of battery left @99% full ... but after that, when doing no particular activity on the computer, it said about 4 hours, as it used to be before)
Location : USA & France |
Edited by - pierro78 on 10/13/2005 13:41:17 |
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pierro78
Junior Member
114 Posts |
Posted - 11/03/2005 : 11:57:18
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quote:
Originally posted by Oliver
Travelstar 4200 RPM 4K120(HTS421212H9AT00)
Seek 1.7W
Read (avg.) 1.4W
Write (avg.) 1.4W
Performance idle (avg.) 1.25W
Active idle (avg.) 0.65W
Low power idle (avg.) 0.45W
Standby (avg.) 0.15W
Sleep 0.1W
now available at a quite much spamer price than what I paid for the 120gb fujitsu :
http://froogle.google.com/froogle?q=HTS421212H9AT00&btnG=Search+Froogle&show=dd
Location : USA & France |
Edited by - pierro78 on 11/03/2005 12:31:24 |
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Mungus
Starting Member
USA
3 Posts |
Posted - 12/09/2005 : 07:02:48
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T1 Question - off topic somewhat
Does anyone have a RESTORE CD / Know how to get one? I've emailed Panasonic not too long ago, and no reply as of yet. I'm hoping someone here may have some help they can offer.
THANK YOU
Mark |
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lapimate
Starting Member
New Zealand
20 Posts |
Posted - 01/28/2006 : 04:27:34
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Hi k.m & also pierro78
Removing CF-R1 keyboard itself: (after screws removed) should any particular edge be lifted first (eg are there any metal hooks), should the edge nearest the screen be raised first or does it not matter?
Is there any double-sided tape or adhesive sticking the keyboard or palm-rest down to the next layer? If so, where?
How did you deal with the heat sink transfer paste between the heat sink & CPU? Did it just separate nicely without breaking up? Or did you replace/repair the old paste (with what)?
How did you transfer the disk contents? Did you use Norton Ghost 10.0? If so, did you clone the old drive using a USB case for new drive? Any hints to ensure trouble-free transfer (in particular prevent drive letter issues)?
I'm preparing to try replacing original Toshiba MK2020GLP in CF-R1N WXP SP2 with a Fujitsu TravelStar 5K100 (selected on basis of idle power in particular, other power specs seeming fairly close total to original.)
Thanks
lapimate
quote:
Originally posted by k.m
It works (for me)!
I changed today on a CF-R1 (20GB 3,3V HDD) to a Fujitsu MHV2080AT 80GB 5V HD
D and it works great! I bent PIN 41 down and connected it to PIN 42 (but pro
pably they are already connected internally) and removed PIN 44.
The new drive needs max. 0,55 Amps (incl. logic) and the old drive required
0,7 Amps only for the spindle-power, so I'm pretty shure that it won't hurt
the power supply.
Have fun,
k.m
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pierro78
Junior Member
114 Posts |
Posted - 01/28/2006 : 18:55:23
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Hi Lapimate,
Had no pb replacing my hard drive in my R1 with a Fujitsu 4Krpm 120GB.
Except that I screwed one screw with a little bit too much strength so one of the "screwhole" is a little bit "screwed" ;-) now (but it's still holding the screw)
I've followed the instructions at the end of the page here :
http://qurl.com/s7jh5
If I recall :
No pb with keyboard.
No adhesive found.
No heat transfer paste.
Content transfered to the new disk with Norton Ghost using a USB enclosure without any problem.
Good luck with your Hitachi Travelstar 5k100 !
(By the way the Hitachi Travelstar 4k120 has the lowest power consumption if I recall).
Pierre
Location : USA & France |
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lapimate
Starting Member
New Zealand
20 Posts |
Posted - 01/29/2006 : 03:49:09
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Merci beaucoup Pierre.
Perhaps you could put a drop of Loctite 222 on that "screwed" screw thread.
Another reference is "Internals of the Panasonic Toughbook CF-R1" http://www.darknight.com/CFR1/index.html (this article does not mention the 3.3V issue re pins 41 & 44).
Yes 4K120 lower power consumption - I chose the 5K100 as a compromise seeking a little more performance, but not as high power as 7K, so hoping 5V power supply circuits could cope (battery performance not major issue for me: 3Com XJACK 3CRPAG175 802.11a/b/g has noticeable effect).
Lapimate |
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pierro78
Junior Member
114 Posts |
Posted - 01/29/2006 : 21:45:27
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very good reference article on the pana r1 internals ! Thx Lapimate !
Location : USA & France |
Edited by - pierro78 on 01/30/2006 14:23:20 |
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Schuetze
Starting Member
Japan
5 Posts |
Posted - 01/30/2006 : 06:11:45
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The HDD in my R3 failed the other day, so I found this thread in my search for replacement and dissassembly information. Just wanted to make a couple of comments for anybody else thinking about upgrading the HDD on an R3. Well it didn't completely die... the main bearing sounds like it's on it's last legs, but I did manage to copy all the data using a USB/ATA hdd enclosure before it gasped it's last breath. I had my fingers crossed.
The R3 is super easy to take apart.
1. If you take the battery out and flip the laptop upside down, you will find two flat punched-metal clips on the bottom side of the battery bay. Use a tiny flat screwdriver and slide them to release the grey plastic buttons. This description seems vague, but you'll see what I mean when you look at the pictures.
2. Remove every screw in the bottom and sides of the main body, except you don't have to remove the RAM cover door. There should be two long screws, 6 medium length screws, one short screw, and one extra short.
3. Now the keyboard can be removed. You can push it up from the back. There are some plastic tabs along the bottom edge of the keyboard (where the space bar is, the Fn key, and near the Home/End key) which "key" the keyboard into the chassis, so you need to slide the keyboard towards the screen a little bit to dissengage them. It might feel stuck, but it will give. Just push gently and wiggle it sideways back and forth. There was a small piece of double sided tape holding my keyboard in place to the chassis. So you just have to wiggle it free.
4. The keyboard will lift out. Just be careful of the keyboard cable, it's a flat ribbon that looks quite delicate.
5. Under the keyboard there are 7 black screws that must be removed. One of them is hidden beneath a metal heatsink lifts off easily.
6. There are two more screws to remove before the chassis will separate. They are located in the top left and top right hand corner of the chassis, near the pivots for the screen.
7. Now the chassis will separate and you can get to all the internals.
The stock HDD in my R3 was a Toshiba MK6025GAS (60GB, 4200 RPM, 8MB buffer, which was labelled as "DC+5V 0.7A." Pin 44 was in place.
I managed to find the exact same hard disk in a Tsukumo in Osu in Nagoya, but what's the fun in that? So I bought a Seagate Momentus 5400.2 120GB drive (ST9120821A). I'm not horribly worried that this drive will thrash my battery, if the battery life takes a huge hit I'll put this drive in a USB enclosure and buy something different for the R3. I'll post some battery life numbers after a week or so once I shake it down. I have a spamnd new battery for this laptop, and it's only been cycled twice so I should be able to give some useful battery life numbers with this drive. The Seagate is labelled as "+5V 0.42A" and it also has a pin 44. The only "missing" pin is on the bottom row in the middle (I think that is #20), and the same pin is missing on the original HDD. I don't know much about the IDE connector, i am guessing that pin is nonexistent on every drive.
Now... I haven't put the Seagate in the R3 yet, because I wanted to just double check that I wasn't going to blow anything up (regarding the 3.3V vs 5V drive issue). If the pin layout on the stock drive matches the replacement, then I shouldn't have any problems, right?
Adam
ps: I'll take pictures later on when I re-assemble, and post them in this thread.
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Schuetze
Starting Member
Japan
5 Posts |
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katana_flyer
New Member
United Kingdom
54 Posts |
Posted - 01/30/2006 : 13:55:50
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I hope it works out for you. Sounds like most drives will work. I'm probably going to get an R4 and stick a 7K60 in it. I'm more than a little nervous about opening up my پ’1200 purchase straight away, but I am perousing the various links with interest.
I am concerned about the current draw of the faster drive at spin up possibly straining the power circuitry, but I guess it will be OK as there isn't a huge difference in current drain.
Interesting that your machine had a 5v part in it already. |
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bigjohn
Junior Member
361 Posts |
Posted - 01/30/2006 : 23:48:28
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I just posted in above thread, I got a 60 gig, 5400 rpm 16mb cache 3.3 HD from Digital hotbuy.
Products Ordered:
. Mfr.: TOSHIBA
. Mfr. Part#: HDD2D17
. UPC:
. Qty: 1
. Price: $92.17
Sub-total: $92.17
Shipping: $4.53
Tax: $0.00
Total: $96.70
All of us at DigitalHotBuy.com appreciate your business. If you have any questions or feedback, please contact Customer Service at
E-mail: CustomerService@DigitalHotBuy.com
Phone: 877-365-7778
Sincerely,
DigitalHotBuy.com
May ease some folks worries about panny replacement HD troubles. Still kinda difficult to get to, but thanks to the previous posters with the picture postings to ease the way. The clips were a tad of trouble. |
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Topic |
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5V hard drives in 3.3V notebooks
